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Move-Out Inspection Checklist for Landlords: Room-by-Room Walkthrough + Deposit Worksheet
The move-out inspection decides the security deposit, and the security deposit is where landlord-tenant disputes most often end up. A good inspection is boring on purpose: the same checklist as move-in, the same order, photos with numbers, and a written comparison of each item.
This guide walks through the inspection room by room, explains how to compare move-out condition against move-in, gives general examples of normal wear versus damage, and ends with a simple deduction worksheet.
Not legal advice. Security deposit rules (deadlines, itemization format, receipts, interest, whether you must offer a pre-move-out inspection) differ by state and city. This is a generic checklist. Look up the rules for your property before you decide anything.
Before the inspection
- Find the move-in report and photos. The move-out inspection only means something if you can compare it to the condition at move-in.
- Schedule it after the tenant has fully moved out, with keys returned, so you see the empty unit.
- Invite the tenant if you can. A walkthrough together resolves many questions on the spot. Some places require landlords to offer an inspection before move-out; check yours.
- Bring: the move-in report, a phone for photos and video, a flashlight, a notepad or the fillable checklist, and a way to test outlets and appliances.
- Record meter readings and collect every key, fob and remote. Note what was returned.
Room-by-room move-out checklist
Go in the same order you used at move-in. For each item, rate the condition (New, Good, Fair, Poor, Damaged, Missing) and take a numbered photo of anything not in good condition.
Entry and hallways
- ☐ Front door, lock and deadbolt work; keys returned
- ☐ Walls and ceiling: holes, marks, unapproved paint
- ☐ Floor: stains, scratches, damage
- ☐ Light fixtures and switches work
- ☐ Smoke and CO alarms present and working
Living and dining areas
- ☐ Walls, ceiling and trim
- ☐ Floors or carpet: stains, burns, pet damage, tears
- ☐ Windows open, close and lock; screens intact
- ☐ Blinds or curtain rods present and undamaged
- ☐ Outlets, switches and fixtures work
Kitchen
- ☐ Cabinets and drawers open, close, no broken hinges
- ☐ Countertops: burns, cuts, chips
- ☐ Sink, faucet and disposal work; no leaks underneath
- ☐ Refrigerator clean, working, shelves present
- ☐ Range and oven clean and working; hood fan and light work
- ☐ Dishwasher runs and drains
Bedrooms
- ☐ Walls, ceiling, floors or carpet
- ☐ Closet doors on track; shelves and rods present
- ☐ Windows, screens and blinds
- ☐ Outlets, switches, fixtures and smoke alarm
Bathrooms
- ☐ Toilet flushes, doesn't run, no cracks
- ☐ Sink, vanity and faucet; no leaks
- ☐ Tub or shower: chips, cracks, drain speed
- ☐ Tile, grout and caulk: mold, missing grout
- ☐ Mirror, medicine cabinet, towel bars and exhaust fan
Laundry, utilities and exterior
- ☐ Washer and dryer (if provided) work; dryer lint area clean
- ☐ Water heater and furnace area: no new leaks or damage
- ☐ Patio, deck, yard and garage: trash removed, no damage beyond normal use
- ☐ Garage door opener and remotes returned
Normal wear and tear vs. damage
Normal wear and tear is the gradual decline that comes from ordinary living. Damage is harm beyond that, from accidents, abuse or neglect. Where exactly the line falls is set by local law and the facts of each case, so treat these as general examples only:
| Usually normal wear | Usually damage |
|---|---|
| Faded or lightly scuffed paint | Large holes, crayon, unapproved paint colors |
| A few small nail holes from pictures | Dozens of holes, holes from TV mounts or doors |
| Carpet worn in walkways after years of use | Burns, tears, pet urine stains or odors |
| Loose door handle from use | Door off its hinges, broken frame |
| Minor grout discoloration | Mold from never running the fan, cracked tiles |
| Faded blinds | Bent or broken slats, missing blinds |
The age of the item matters. Carpet at the end of its useful life loses value regardless of the tenant, so many landlords prorate replacement costs rather than charging the full price of new.
Compare, then itemize
For each item, put the move-in rating next to the move-out rating. Only items that are worse than at move-in, beyond normal wear, belong on a deduction list. For each one, record:
- The room and item, with the move-in and move-out condition
- What's wrong and what work is needed
- How you priced it: receipt, invoice, estimate, or your own labor (hours × rate)
- The photo numbers that show it
- The amount
Then total it: deposit held (plus any interest your area requires) minus itemized deductions equals the amount to return. Send the itemized list and the refund by the deadline and in the format your state or city requires, and keep copies of everything.
See the Move-In / Move-Out Inspection Checklist →
Frequently asked questions
What should a move-out inspection checklist include?
Every room and area in the unit, the same items as the move-in report, a condition rating and notes for each item, numbered photos, keys and meter readings, and signatures or acknowledgment where possible.
Can I deduct for normal wear and tear?
Generally, no. Security deposits are usually for unpaid rent and damage beyond normal wear and tear. The details vary by state and city, so check the rules that apply to your rental.
Should the tenant be present for the move-out inspection?
It often helps, because you can agree on most items at once. In some places landlords must offer a pre-move-out inspection. Either way, take dated photos and keep the report.
How long do I have to return a security deposit?
It depends on where your property is. Deadlines differ by state and sometimes by city, and some places require a specific itemization format. Look up your local rule before move-out day.
Key & Kit templates are organizational tools, not legal advice, and they aren't state-specific forms.